In the middle of the XNUMXth century, in the economic and educational centers of the Bulgarian lands, Kotel, Panagyurishte, Koprivshtitsa, Gabrovo, Tarnovo, Elena, Sliven, etc. the old-fashioned cloth women's and black-robed men's garments gave way to their regular use for a new type of urban-type costume. Revival clothing developed while preserving the home-made method and the basic elements of traditional costume.

Its artistic design is changed and enriched - mainly by using new and finer imported factory fabrics. From the eastern markets, where they trade with the abi they produce, the Kotel abadjis and merchants bring silk fabrics, satin, velvet, with which almost all elements of the women's costume begin to be made in Kotel. From their pilgrimages to Jerusalem, rich local merchants bring their wives and daughters a gift - the so-called a "shroud" cloth of dark blue factory cloth, decorated with printed white oriental motifs, which the cat stores over the waistcoat as an apron.